Exploring the other side of Malaga

Malaga is well known for its party spirit, endorsed heavily by the Brits, with its reputation relying extensively on it’s nightlife. As we drove towards it in our caravan, we expected just that, however, before we had a chance to see one bar, we took a turn into Ardeles and began to ascend into the mountains.

El Caminito del Rey is translated as The King’s little pathway and is a walkway pinned along the steep walls of a narrow gorge in El Chorro, Malaga in the western Baetic mountains. It was originally built between 1901-1905 to transport materials and people between two power stations that were built either side of the El Chorro gorge. However before that, shepherds and hunters were the only ones to use the gorge. Due to industrialisation, the need for a railway between Cordoba and Malaga became evident to link the mining area with the coal factories and remnants of it’s tracks, that passed through tunnels and viaducts can still be seen today.

It got it’s name when it was officially opened in 1920 by King Alfonso XIII who walked its length of 3km. El Chorro can be loosely translated as ‘spurt’ which is what the water used to do when travelling through the gorge’s narrow ravine. At the end of the 19th century, it was necessary to find an alternative energy source due to the demand for coal increasing. Rafael Benjumea was the engineer incharge of the project which took advantage of the height difference between the two man-made reservoirs at either end of the gorge, which provided a revolutionary concept to develop hydroelectric energy and bring together three rivers: Turon, Guadalteba and Guadalhorce. The project consisted of altering the course of the river at the entrance of Gaitenejo, drawing it into a three kilometers long channel towards the gateway of the Desfiladero de los Gaitanes.

The original structure of the concrete walkway was said toSXLLM​​ be built by sailors who were used to climbing ropes and being suspended at a great height. Some reports even state that death row prisoners were challenged by carrying out the more difficult tasks at the great heights. The path was made up of only sand and cement being held together by metal brackets with only a railing for safety - inevitable, it caused the deaths of many people which induced the path to be officially closed by the government in 2000. However adrenaline junkies and thrill seekers still trespassed, ignoring the 6,000 euro fine causing another three men to die gaining its reputation as the ‘Most dangerous walkway on the planet’. Their memorial can still be seen on the rocks today.

The walkway re-opened in 2015 after a 2.2 million euro renovation and thousands of people walk it everyday. We started off our route at the top of the gorge in Ardeles and followed the river downstream, walking the new 7.7 kilometer route that Luis Machuca, head architect and director of the project felt should have a seamless transition between the old and new. As we walked, hard-hats on head and cameras in hand, we would look down through the grates of the new boardwalk, to be reminded of the historical significance and danger of the journey by the original concrete, broken and rusting. Once we were over the giddiness of being at such a great height of 105m, we were able to immerse ourselves in the views of turquoise waters of the Guadalhorce river and interesting rock formations that we were sure to take pictures of.

If you ever find yourself in Malaga and want to explore a more authentic side of the province, we recommend challenging yourself and taking on this hike that will leave you with an impression of the natural beauty that Spain has to offer and it’s rich history.

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